Mastering the Handshake: Types of Pickleball Grips Explained
Why Your Grip Is the Foundation of Every Pickleball Shot
The types of pickleball grips come down to four main styles, each suited to different shots and skill levels:
| Grip Style | Best For | Skill Level |
|---|---|---|
| Continental | Volleys, dinks, quick transitions | All levels |
| Eastern | Forehand drives, balanced play | Beginner to intermediate |
| Western | Heavy topspin, aggressive baseline shots | Advanced |
| Two-Handed Backhand | Power and stability on backhands | Intermediate to advanced |
Picture this: you’re mid-rally, the ball is coming fast, and your paddle twists just enough to send it straight into the net. It’s not always your swing that’s the problem. Often, it’s your grip.
How you hold your paddle affects everything — your shot accuracy, the spin you generate, your reaction time at the kitchen line, and even how tired your hand feels after an hour of play.
The good news? You don’t need to master five different grips to play well. Most beginners do just fine starting with one solid grip and building from there.
This guide breaks down each grip style clearly — how to form it, when to use it, and which one makes the most sense for where you are in your game right now.

Types of pickleball grips basics:
The Fundamental Styles: How to Form Each Grip
Before we dive into the specific types of pickleball grips, we need to understand the geography of your paddle handle. If you look at the butt of your paddle, the handle isn’t a perfect circle; it’s an octagon with eight flat sides called “bevels.”
To find your grip, we usually look at where the base index knuckle of your dominant hand rests. Think of the top flat bevel as Bevel 1. If you are right-handed, you count clockwise (1 through 8). If you are left-handed, you count counter-clockwise.

When we talk about forming a grip, we often use two main analogies: the “hammer” and the “handshake.” These simple mental images help ensure your hand is positioned correctly without needing a degree in biomechanics. For a deep dive into these basics, check out the definitive guide to pickleball grips for new players.
The Continental Grip: The Most Versatile of the Types of Pickleball Grips
The Continental grip is often called the “Hammer Grip” because that is exactly how you hold it. Imagine you are about to nail a piece of wood; the edge of the paddle acts as the hammer head.
- How to form it: Place the base knuckle of your index finger on Bevel 2. When you look down at your hand, the “V” formed by your thumb and index finger should be right on the top of the handle (Bevel 1).
- Why it works: This is the most neutral position possible. It allows you to hit both forehands and backhands without moving your hand.
- Best for: This is the gold standard for play at the kitchen line. It’s perfect for volleys, dinks, and quick defensive blocks because you don’t have time to switch grips when the ball is flying at you at 60 mph.
The Eastern Grip: A Balanced Entry Among Types of Pickleball Grips
If the Continental is the hammer, the Eastern grip is the “Handshake.” This is arguably the most popular of all types of pickleball grips for players moving from beginner to intermediate levels.
- How to form it: Hold the paddle face with your non-dominant hand so the paddle is perpendicular to the ground. Now, reach out and “shake hands” with the handle. Your index knuckle should naturally land on Bevel 3.
- Why it works: It provides a very natural, comfortable feel for the forehand. Unlike the Continental, which can feel a bit “weak” on the forehand side for some, the Eastern grip puts more of your palm behind the handle, giving you a solid foundation for power.
- Best for: Beginners love this grip because it feels secure. It’s excellent for serves, returns, and mid-court drives.
Advanced Variations: Western and Two-Handed
As you progress, you might find that the “standard” grips don’t offer enough “oomph” for specific shots. That’s where the Western and Two-Handed styles come in.
The Western Grip Think of this as the “Frying Pan” grip. To find it, place your paddle flat on the floor and simply pick it up. Your index knuckle will be on Bevel 4. This grip closes the paddle face significantly. It is the king of topspin, allowing you to brush up the back of the ball aggressively. However, it makes hitting a backhand very awkward, often requiring a “backwards” flick of the wrist.
The Two-Handed Backhand Borrowed heavily from tennis, the two-handed grip is becoming a staple in pro pickleball. You hold your dominant hand in a Continental or Eastern grip at the bottom and place your non-dominant hand above it. This provides immense stability and power for backhand drives and can even help with scientific research on grip ergonomics and racket sports showing that two hands can reduce the strain on the dominant elbow.
Comparing Performance: Advantages and Disadvantages of Different Types of Pickleball Grips
No single grip is “perfect” for every scenario. Choosing among the types of pickleball grips involves a series of trade-offs between power, spin, and versatility.
| Feature | Continental | Eastern | Western |
|---|---|---|---|
| Forehand Power | Moderate | High | Very High |
| Backhand Ease | Excellent | Moderate | Poor |
| Topspin Potential | Low | Moderate | Extreme |
| Volley Quickness | Best | Good | Difficult |
| Versatility | Highest | High | Low |
For players with smaller hands, these trade-offs are even more pronounced. Using the best small grip pickleball paddles for better control can help you manage these different styles without feeling like the paddle is slipping out of your hand.
Impact on Specific Shots: From Dinks to Volleys
In the “Kitchen” (the non-volley zone), the Continental grip reigns supreme. Because the face is slightly open, it’s easier to “lift” dinks over the net with a soft touch. If you use a Western grip at the kitchen, you might find yourself hitting the ball into the net more often because the paddle face is naturally tilted downward.
For overhead slams, the Continental or a “strong” Eastern grip allows for the wrist snap needed to put the ball away. If you’re struggling with “pop-ups” (hitting the ball too high for your opponent to smash), check your grip pressure — we’ll get to that in a moment.
Skill Level Suitability: Beginner to Advanced
We generally recommend that beginners start with the Eastern Grip. It’s the most intuitive and allows you to get the ball over the net consistently. As you move into intermediate play, learning the Continental Grip becomes essential for net play.
Advanced players are rarely “locked” into one grip. They might use a Semi-Western for a powerful topspin serve, then immediately shift to Continental as they move toward the kitchen. This “situational switching” is what separates the pros from the recreational players.
Mastering Grip Pressure and Mid-Rally Transitions
One of the biggest mistakes we see in new players isn’t the type of grip they use, but how hard they squeeze it. We call this “white-knuckling.”
The ideal grip pressure for most pickleball shots is about a 3 or 4 out of 10.
Think of holding a bird: you want to hold it firmly enough so it doesn’t fly away, but gently enough so you don’t hurt it. A loose grip allows for better “feel” on dinks and resets. If you grip too tightly, the paddle becomes an unforgiving board, and the ball will “pop” off it uncontrollably. This is especially important for certain demographics; for instance, optimizing pickleball grip for senior players often focuses on reducing pressure to avoid joint fatigue.
When and How to Switch Grips
Should you switch types of pickleball grips during a rally? The short answer is: yes, if you can do it quickly.
Pros often switch to a Western or Semi-Western grip when they are at the baseline to hit a heavy topspin drive, then shift back to Continental as they approach the net. To practice this, use your non-dominant hand to lightly “torque” or turn the paddle in your dominant hand between shots.
Pro Tip: Hold the paddle more in your fingers than in the palm of your hand. This increase in “finger-tip feel” makes it much easier to make those micro-adjustments during a fast exchange.
Choosing the Right Equipment: Materials, Sizes, and Overgrips
The physical grip on your paddle (the wrap) is just as important as how you hold it. There are three main textures you’ll encounter:
- Cushion Grips: Thick and padded, great for absorbing vibration and reducing hand fatigue.
- Ribbed Grips: Feature a raised “ridge” that wraps around the handle, helping you feel exactly where your fingers are placed.
- Perforated Grips: Have tiny holes to allow moisture to escape, making them the best choice for players with sweaty hands.
To learn more about these options, see the ultimate guide to pickleball paddle grips and overgrips.
Determining Your Ideal Grip Size
Using the wrong grip size can lead to “Pickleball Elbow” or wrist strain. If the grip is too small, you’ll squeeze too hard to keep the paddle from rotating. If it’s too large, you won’t be able to use your wrist effectively for spin.
Here are three ways to find your fit:
- The Height Test: Generally, players under 5’3″ use a 4″ grip; 5’3″ to 5’8″ use 4.25″; and those over 5’8″ use 4.5″.
- The Index Finger Test: Hold your paddle in an Eastern grip. You should be able to fit the index finger of your other hand in the gap between your ring finger and the base of your palm.
- The Ruler Test: Measure from the middle crease of your palm to the tip of your ring finger. That measurement is your ideal grip circumference.
For more specialized advice, read about understanding pickleball paddle grip size for seniors or finding the perfect small grip pickleball paddle for your game.
Base Grips vs. Overgrips
The base grip is the thick, permanent wrap that comes on the paddle from the factory. An overgrip is a thin, inexpensive layer you wrap over the base grip.
We recommend using overgrips for a few reasons:
- Tackiness: Overgrips provide that “sticky” feel that wears off base grips quickly.
- Customization: You can add one or two overgrips to slightly increase the handle size if it feels too small.
- Hygiene: It’s much easier (and cheaper) to replace a $2 overgrip every few weeks than to replace a $15 base grip.
Frequently Asked Questions and Conclusion
At Voce Economia, we believe that mastering the “handshake” between you and your paddle is the fastest way to improve your game. Don’t feel pressured to learn every grip on day one. Start with what feels natural, focus on keeping your grip pressure light, and experiment as your confidence grows.
What is the best grip for beginners?
The Eastern grip is usually the best starting point. It feels the most natural for most people and provides a “neutral” foundation that works well for both serves and rallies. However, many coaches also suggest starting with the Continental grip because it eliminates the need to switch hands for backhands, simplifying the learning curve.
Should I switch grips during a point?
As you move into intermediate and advanced play, yes! Switching to a Western grip for a topspin serve and then back to Continental for a kitchen volley is a pro-level strategy. However, if you are a beginner, it is better to stick to one grip (like Eastern or Continental) to build consistency and muscle memory first.
How often should I replace my overgrip?
This depends on how much you play and how much you sweat.
- Casual players: Once a month.
- Average players (2-3 times a week): Every 10–20 hours of play.
- Heavy sweaters: Every 6–10 hours. If the handle starts feeling “slick” or if the paddle rotates in your hand when you hit a off-center shot, it’s time for a fresh wrap.
Ready to upgrade your gear? Explore our full range of pickleball equipment to find the perfect paddle and grip for your next match!